hi guys/
Im new here and very much an amateur in car repair but I like doing it and I'm learning as i go. Just did a partial rebuild of a dodge ram van in my driveway and sold it for a decent profit when it was done / part of the deal was I got this 01 toy cam xle with 176k miles. / runs great but I have to drive it 3000+ miles in a month and there's a few things that have to be looked at... / lots of oil all over the engine / also the transmission fluid is dark red and smells a little burned... eeeekk / i took a chance i know ... anyways pretty sure I'll be changing out a bunch of gaskets and hoses and fluids etc before I leave for my trip.

wondering what you guys can tell me about known issues and problems and certain things to look out for on these particular cars; especially one with almost 200k.

I'll be cruising through these forums a ton and I'm sure I will be posting an annoying amount of questions once I get going and I know this request is super broad but any heads up about anything would be great...

 

Welcome to CF.

What engine model, V6 or 4-cylinder?

The normal trans color is red (was Dexron III, no called ATF) and can have a smell after use. The power steering uses the same fluid thus can compare. As the fluid degrades it becomes darker and eventually black.

If up to it, you can do a complete fluid change (DIY) which takes about 12 quarts. This is NOT a flush that uses cleaning chemicals.

 

ah yes sorry- it's a v6

thanks for the fluid check tips. Makes me feel a little better; will check. I'll be changing it anyways as the last owner didnt know that was something that could even be done...

I'll look into doing a complete fluid change for sure. 12qts? wow.

Was poking around this morning and I can see the heads gaskets have to be done. Oh joy. This is what i just got done doing and of course the deeper I went the more I found. fingers crossed this isn't the case here.

Any tips of head gasket repairs? Should i buy that expensive all inclusive set from felpro or will I be good getting just the head and intake gaskets?

 

Valve cover gaskets or head gaskets?

If head gaskets get a multi-layered steel head gasket of decent quality; Felpro, BGA, Reinz, Beck/Arnley or use Toyota brand. The other gaskets are not a major concern.

Inspect head bolt dia or replace. Min dia. = 0.3445 inch.

If heads gaskets why did both fail? The engine typically does not have problems unless over heated.

If valve cover gaskets use a form-in-place gasket maker to aid sealing in addition to the gasket. Wait the material cure time for starting engine.

The trans takes 10-12 quarts to flush out the old fluid. 2/3 of fluid is in the torque converter and does not drain out. Need to use the trans pump to force the fluid out of trans via removing the fluid return line from the trans cooler on the radiator. Disconnect this hose at the trans and route into a container. Fill trans with new fluid and allow it to be pumped out. Refill and repeat the process until fluid is clean again.

If just doing a pan drain and refill will be under 3 quarts.

Check all coolant hoses for bulging, soft spots, etc. The upper radiator tank is plastic and can start having hairline cracks causing minor seepage leading to a major leak.

Draw out power steering fluid from reservoir and replace with new. Do this between drives until the fluid is clear again.

 

Change that transmission filter while you are at it! At 176k it is probably in dire need of changing. Good to drop that pan to get the gunk out of the bottom out and check for material in the pan and around the magnets. Lesson learned the hard way for me

 

Do the head bolts actually grow or shrink? If I end up taking them off I would change them anyways regardless. Im just curious about checking the Diameter.

 

- I'm crossing my fingers it's only the valve cover gaskets and an overheat had nothing to do with anything..

 

Thank you guys for getting back to me- your responses have been tremendously helpful.

Couple more questions-

1.) I'm going to dig into the valve cover this weekend. Those gaskets are def leaking (I hope this is the end of my problems...) what else should I buy so I'm not caught with my pants down? I assume I'll need a new intake gasket since I'll have to remove that.

2.) My CV axle boots are both ripped - I can buy both of Axles w/boots and everything for around $150 online. a set of four boots would run me $60ish from what I cal tell. Not sure what either operation entails as far as installing. What would you do? replace
just the boots or do whole assembly?

3.) Concerning the struts.. What's the best way to tell if they are bad? Mine don't feel like they resist all that much and a good bump you feel the car come down as far as it will go with a bump. but its also not sitting on the frame... Also are the boots not supposed to be fastened to the bottom? I was at a junk yard scrounging for parts and every camry I found the boots were only connected at the top with the bottom part of the shock(?) exposed and the boots just hanging as it is on my car.

 

1. You shouldn't be removing the intake to check the valve cover. You'll just need a new gasket and some black RTV to put in certain places (not sure about your '01 - on my '09 you put a dab where the timing chain cover joins the head).

2. I personally wouldn't mess with just the boots. Since they are cracked you have purged out the grease in it and may have gotten debris inside, so you'd need to check all that anyway. Not to mention all the work and tooling needed to get the clamps off and back on. Just replace the entire axle IMO. I bought new ones (Duralast) from Autozone and am not happy with them, as they do not seat flush up against the transmission, and as such weep fluid a bit. Going to be changing them out with some other brand before too long.

Installing is a bit of a job - if you are not comfortable tearing into the suspension (lower ball joint, axle hub, etc.) and do not have the right tools (axle nut socket, big *** breaker bar to break said axle nut) then you may consider having a shop do it. You'll want to get an alignment after as well.

3. I'd just assume that at 176k those struts could use replacing. Since you are tearing into the suspension for the CV axles, might as well put in new struts if you have the cash for it. Avoid aftermarket kits that have their own mounts. You may be able to get away with just the strut assemblies (no mount or spring). You'll want a shop to compress and get those new assemblies onto the springs for you, unless you like to live on the edge and get the free spring compressor tool from an Autozone type of place. I had a shop put the springs on my assemblies for me, was not all that expensive.

And while at it, may consider outer tie rods at the same time. Again, at 176k they may need them anyway, and you have to do an alignment anyway, so might as well replace all these things at one swoop to avoid the cost of another alignment a few months or whatever from now. If you have the budget, as good a time as any to do all that.

 

I agree with Dad.
definitely dont just replace cv boots, do the whole axle(s).