Hi,

We have a 1999 Camry with a story that is becoming ugly. Here's what I know.

Basic symptoms: Check engine light. 02 sensors aren't getting current. Left blinker blinks very fast but all lights are lighting up.
Originally the car was run in California. The car shop we bought it from bought it on auction, replaced two O2 sensors and sold it to us (for too much money). We bought it with the check engine light on. I knocked off some money off the cost, enough, I hoped to get it repaired.

One year later we need to get this fixed for WA emissions. My mechanic finds two codes in the banks, replaces an O2 sensor (actually, the idiot mechanic that worked for the dealership had put the wrong part in where the 02 sensor goes, had to grind off plastic to get it to fit, my mechanic fixed this) and a coolant temperature sensor but the O2 sensor code does not go away. Four hundred dollars. No solution because the 02 sensors aren't getting current anyway.

More diagnosis: they think it's the ECM. After a pin test: maybe it's the ECM. More diagnosis: no it's the wiring harness. They pull in a wiring harness: the wiring harness doesn't fit because our engine is an aftermarket engine, not the standard engine for this Camry. My mechanic doesn't know what kind of engine is in there so he doesn't know what kind of wiring harness to order. And I have to wonder how much work would have been saved if they realized "This is an aftermarket engine and it looks like someone did some patchwork on the wiring."

What on earth do we do? How do I figure out what kind of engine is in my car?

~Joshua

 

What engine I4 or V6, which 2 sensors, what were the exact codes?
You may be able to determine the engine info from the serial number.

The fast blinker could be the flasher unit or a defective bulb.

 

I think it's a 4 cylinder. We're seeing p135 which signifies the sensor isn't getting the right (current? Voltage)?

Where would I find the serial number?

 

Somewhat confused?

P0135 is for the Bank 1 Sensor 1 heating circuit. This the first sensor in exhaust system. This code is supposed to be for a non-California emissions car.

The computer is detecting too high (more then 2 amps) or too low (less then 0.2 amps) current flow in the sensor heater circuit. The issue could be the heater inside the sensor (resistance heater) or an issue with the wiring.

You will need to determine if the car was built to California or Federal emissions standards as they use differant sensors. This code is for a Federal emissions car. Check under the engine hood for a sticker. If a California car should state something like "CALIF."

Is this the original engine? The computer would have a part number. With this number can find out engine, year, emissions standard, stick/auto. Have the website somewhere to look this info up.

The dealer may be able to tell by the VIN number on the drivers door.

If checking voltage from the computer should be 9-12V between terminal HT1 and ground.

Sensor heater resistance should be 11-16 ohms between terminals HT and B+ on the sensor.

Wiring might be as follows but not sure.

Bank 1 sensor wiring Black/Yellow = B+, Blue/Yellow = HT, White = 0X. Brown = E1 (the last two would be the connections for the actual sensor).

You can check the other sensor, Bank 1, sensor 2 using the same approach. Black = B+, Green = HT.

The issue is not engine but the computer and sensors. California and Federal use differant sensors. Also if using an aftermarket sensor suggest only using Denso brand (or Toyota), Bosch seems to have problems with Toyota causing the trouble light to come again.

So,

Determine if the car was built to California or Federal emissions standards. Check for the sticker under the hood. If need be find the computer behind the glove box and obtain the part number or check the VIN number.

Check the voltage at the sensor.

Worst case is to run a new wire(s) from the computer to the sensors.